Hirobo Lama 30 Bash!

I found this in the box, complete Hirobo Lama 30 kit on eBay for a pretty decent price and scooped it up.

Was supposed to be something to build over the winter, but of course, it somehow got started. I am going to convert it to electric and try my hand at as much scale detail as possible.

The mechanics and fuselage are built up just to see how things go together and to get an idea of what to change. The mechanics are older, first gen Hirobo S30 mechanics. They are lacking the familiar "Hirobo" logo on the rear top portion of the frame sides. The main rotor head in the box is the early design with the flybar on top. The head will more than likely be upgraded, although those top flybar heads are pretty smooth!

Started to look at different things and to get most of the assemblies in primer. Not sure what color or scheme I want to go with yet so it will all be in primer for a while.

So far I have had good luck finding misc. parts like a SWM conversion, the parts for the nitro to electric conversion (I will not be using the clutch with this setup) and a scale Hirobo cockpit. Believe it or not, there is still a lot of this stuff out there.

After looking at many Lama images I realized that the side panels on the Hirobo have to go. I found another build on SRCH that removed the bulk of the panel material and used styrene tubing to build the tubular frame. I think I can do that!

I will flow all the joints with thick ca or epoxy and blend them in better then prime. I am hoping that with paint and other add on that the frame of the side panel will "disappear" and not be such an eye sore. I did it this way for ease of mounting and for the canopy to attach to.

While I wait for more tubing to be delivered, I started to locate the canopy.

This heli is 1:8.3 scale. Would it be worth it to make the mold line doors into actual working doors. The white abs portion of the canopy has a nice step to it that could act as a jamb. I would just need to build a jamb on the clear portion and make a front post for the hinges.

Worth it or avoid the headache and just add detail? 🤔

I haven't had much time save for an hour here and there lately to work on the Lama. I did manage to get a few more details built.

I absolutely hate the look of the canopy with the supplied Hirobo decals. After careful consult with the experts here at SHP, I will not be making the doors functional. At this point my next idea is to use the decals as masking outlines then remove and paint the canopy framing. A few paint layers should yield some panel lines. Then I can apply rivets.

I have gotten some more work done on the Hirobo Lama these past couple of weekends thanks to the crazy rain we have been having.

I got the side panels in primer with rivets and a couple access panels. Also the canopy came out pretty good and added rivets and some nose scale work. I have to fill some spots with epoxy and micro balloons and rework . All in all, I'm happy with it so far.

So... I started working on adding detail to the dummy turbine. I know I needed to reproduce things like wires, ignition leads, plumbing, fuel lines etc. I even managed to make a quasi rotor brake and high speed shaft.

The materials used are sections of telephone wire, 1/16 brass tubing, scrap pieces of aviation safety cable, and styrene for the fittings and driveshaft. Also keeping in mind that I have to have a way of removing what details I add in the case of disassembly.

While it is not complete and needs some airbrush details, to me it is becoming a bit cartoonish and unrealistic. I may order another turbine and start over. Any advice is appreciated!

A little update. Got the Lama painted. Not very happy with it. The white paint wrinkled in several spots on the canopy. Not sure why. I cleaned everything with a wipe of a tack rag and then alcohol before spaying. The primer was Rustolium and the White is Rustolium also.

I sanded the wrinkled spots back down and repainted but the same spots wrinkled again. Not sure what to do now... Anyway, I will move on to more detailing and eventually start ordering some electronics. I also need to figure out a slider setup for the tail rotor. It is an Align 3 blade TR for a 550.

I am also thinking of painting the mechanics a flat grey or even white as I think the black is just too much. What do you think?

Since I started this project, the one thing I have been unsure of, is how to do the faux fuel cell.

I don't have a 3d printer and short of talking someone into printing a set, I figured, let's try and build a set.

First thought was balsa and fiberglass. But shaping would be a pain. I have plenty of Pink Owens-Corning insulation board and shaped a piece I think will work. I did make a template out of balsa of the radius of the tank I am looking for. I have laid it up with fiberglass clothes and finishing resin. Hopefully this works and turns out acceptable. If so, I will hollow out most of the foam board and fill the weave with high build primer and paint to match.

I stepped away from the scale details for a bit to start figuring out the electronics.

Since I made the switch from the old servo setup to SWM, I needed to rethink the tail rotor servo. This is what I came up with. Used a piece of aluminum angle and some hardwood blocks. It seems very strong with the bond from JB Weld.

I also am going to use the 3-blade t/r from Align. The next hurdle is coming up with something to use as a pitch change lever. I have the Hirobo "fork" style lever, but it is too wide for the Align slider block and the geometry is just not right.

Back in chapter 9 I was toying with making a faux fuel cell out of foam sheet. They actually came out pretty nice, however, I came across an .stl file I liked better and had them printed commercially.

I filled them a bit with high build primer to erase the print lines and added fake weld joints using the same process as adding rivets then dragging together with a tooth pick.

The suspension cables are made from styrene tubing and elastic cord.

I think they came out pretty slick. I have also gotten the motor installed. It's 850kv and if the math is right I should be in the 1500rpm range.

I am sure many of you are familiar with Micro Designs. I contacted Mark about ordering a couple 4-point harness sets for the cockpit seats of this Hirobo Lama.30. He informed me that he didn't have anything in this scale (1:8.2) .

He said he would try to scale a set of his 1:6 size down and see how they would come out. After a preview I ordered 2 sets. The parts are very tiny. The anchor points and length adjuster are only 5mm across. The 4-point buckle assy is 15mm wide and 10mm high.

I separated the buckle assy to make it look like it would as if no one was sitting in the seat. I think it adds a lot to the cockpit detail and look great. Thanks Mark!

I also set the cockpit up on magnets so I can utilize the space underneath for the reciever and fbl controller.

In an earlier chapter I wrote of having an issue with the geometry of the stock Hirobo tail rotor lever arm to the Align 3 blade slider. I tried Hirobo 's "Y" arm but it was too wide for the slider and way too long.

Without having to buy a complete Align 550 tail rotor gearbox, I was able to find just the side plate and parts that make up the pitch change assy. Luckily, with the addition of a few washers for spacers, the assy fit, and works well.

I had to do a bit of modification and make some supports for the control rod. I am not sure if I like it this way or should I try to use a flexible control rod and semi-hide it?

A little update... I have gotten the electronics installed. For this heli, I will be using the BD 3x. I have never used this controller before and the setup went quite easily. I am using a FrSky Archer RS Plus reciever, F-Bused into the controller and X20s radio. I will probably run through the setup once again, just to be sure.

Upon the first spool up, I noticed the main gear has quite the wobble! That is going to need some attention...

I also added more detail to the canopy by way of the mirror rigging. Next will be antenna and weathering. I had trouble with the paint on parts of the canopy wrinkling, so I will use that as some weathering detail also.

Just about ready for the maiden flight. Going to paint and rebalance the blades first. I did spin it up under its own power with the blades on to set the gov store on the Hobbywing esc. Then set throttle for approx headspeed and pitch curve.

This is my first time using a BD 3x fbl controller. I will run through the setup 1 more time to be sure.

I also picked up a used 3d printer for $75. Kingroon KP3s 3.0. It actually prints quite well! I drew the antenna on the top of the canopy in Fusion360 and printed it as my first bit of scale add on! I was planning on printing the cargo hook support, but won't be able to because of the batteries. I want to draw and print the external baskets and maybe put the batteries there.

So... You know how I mentioned I was going to use a BD 3x for this build? I chickened out. Went with what I know, MSH Brain2 (mini). I haven't given up on the 3X, I put it into another pod and boom heli until I figure out the whole head gyro tuning thing.

Anyway, I was able to get a couple test overs in this morning in my back yard. Between crazy rain and wind for the last month, things are looking better.

I have 1400, 1500, 1600 set for rpm. 1600 is way too much! 1400 is ok but I tend to chase the pitch around in a hover, like I'm trying to bounce a balloon. 1500 is better but seems too high of a head speed also. I may try 1450-1475 and see what that does. Also tweak my pitch curve for more pitch around center.

Cyclic is good and as expected. No complaints there. Hoping to maiden soon (looks like rain and wind for the w/e again, go figure).

Going to call this done. Other than maybe some weathering and scale do-dads, I will just fly it.

After adjusting head speed and pitch curves, I flies pretty good for what has been done to it. I have another project in mind... Till then.

Hirobo Lama 30 EP Conversion
Hirobo SWM conversion with 3 blade head.
Align 3 blade tail rotor
Align 730mx 870kv motor HW 120a esc
MSH Mini Brain2, FrSky Archer RS, full integration