Build Story
Hirobo Lama 30 Bash!
Joe B.
Chapter 7 of 17
The "DTD's" (dummy turbine details)
Oct 11, 2023
So... I started working on adding detail to the dummy turbine. I know I needed to reproduce things like wires, ignition leads, plumbing, fuel lines etc. I even managed to make a quasi rotor brake and high speed shaft.
The materials used are sections of telephone wire, 1/16 brass tubing, scrap pieces of aviation safety cable, and styrene for the fittings and driveshaft. Also keeping in mind that I have to have a way of removing what details I add in the case of disassembly.
While it is not complete and needs some airbrush details, to me it is becoming a bit cartoonish and unrealistic. I may order another turbine and start over. Any advice is appreciated!
77 Comments
Looks like a good deal!!
Not quite what I wanted (Baby Lama) but I'll make it work.
After I finish the Lama build, I'll let you know what I think in terms of a Lama in that size range. It's pricey but good quality.
And a lot more scale...
Looks great so far
Cool project. Nice to be able to find stuff as well.
Nicely done Mang.
I would punt, but I’m known for being lazy!
There a high probability I'll be punting.
That a good question. Many years ago I worked to have functional doors on my first Len Mount Comanche. A nice touch for any scale helicopter. Thought about it, came up with a plan, thought about it some more and I was off. Well some of the best laid plans may not always work out as planned. Anyway some things to consider.
First if I biff this up can I get a replacement canopy? This is a biggie.
It will need substantial structure to support the doors. Can that be added and not biff up the canopy?
What hinges and latches are out there, how do they attach and when drilling or gluing in place will I biff up the canopy, etc. etc. etc.
There is my 1/4 of 1 cent.
B
Thanks Butch! So far the consensus is to punt and avoid biffing up the canopy. Coming from you guys, it's sound advice.
Dang,
That looks great. Good Idea for the canopy frame work. There are a ton of possibilities for detail on the engine. Have a look at Detail Master.com They have a bunch of detail items that could be used to dress up the powerplant.
B
Oooh, thanks for the tip! I have been saving scraps of safety cable from work to use as braided cable and hoses. I also have 1/16in brass tubing. Going to get the rest in primer first.
Nice Access to DMC Safety Cable. That great stuff. Bell Wire, strip the casing off, from HD is good for detail too.
WOW!!!!
That looks great mang.
Awe shucks...
Nicely done there on the side mods
Thanks!
This is very nice Joe!
Suggestion1: have a bigger shaft to make it closer to real one.
This part is quite visible in flight.
If already installed, you might want wrap it with some extra tube.
Suggestion2: weathering yellow, red and green wirings (otherwise toy looking)
Suggestion3: The last bit of exhaust could have a different color to reproduce heated metal (burned brown)
Thanks Remy. I agree with the red and green wiring. I think that is what's making it look off. I will rework the high speed shaft also.
These colors are not 100% but still showing the idea
Correct. My plan is to "blue" the exhaust at the beginning of the exhaust stack where the gasses would be hottest. Then air brush some soot at the exhaust exit.
I think you are off to a great start on the engine detail. Let me see if I can take some photos of the Arriel 2D power plant in the A-Star here for some basic reference.
B
One of the best Hirobo’s I’ve seen
Joe,
That looks great mang. Personally I like the black mechanics. Its had to see in the photos but would it be possible or is there enough room to make some "faux" covers to give the appearance of the fuel cell? Plastic can be a PITA no matter how well you clean and prep the surface. I have used the Krylon Fusion paint for plastics with good luck. The other option is a pricy trip to the auto paint store.
I hope to see this great machine at some local events this coming year.
B
Thanks Butch. Yes there room for faux fuel tanks. In fact I have been given the .stl files to print them. Just need to find someone to print for me. I am thinking of leaving the paint imperfections and call it wetherizarion! Lol
I like the “weatherizarion”.
Nicely done.
B.
I opted for quick Vivak sheet, which is light and easy to remove for maintenance. Overall aspect not looking too bad from far. Definitively not scale but got very limited space with Align 700X and didn't want challenge that one.
Tip: used crushed gold servo shims to reinforce the holes.
Thanks for the idea. That would definitely be easier!
Looks nice, to me
Nice job on the servo mount. Is that the stock Hirobo tail drive shaft?
yes. That is the stock drive wire. Is it something I should be concerned about? Honestly, I think it is going to be the source of much vibration...
Joe, The wire drive should be ok. Just make sure there are flats when the set screws seat.
I see my question was about as clear as mud.
Is that the stock TGB out-put shaft. Its Monday. Lol.
No. That is the upgraded, metal tail drive gear. I didn't like the stock setup with the plastic gear and the sleeve over the drive wire output. This one will secure the drive wire a lot better. Good advice on the flats. 👍
Sorry Butch, re-read your reply, it is definitely Monday... It is the stock TGB. I am going to try to adapt Aligns setup. There is def room to move the unit in on the shaft and still get enough throw.
Amazing
Well, not quite amazing, but it'll do.
Where did you pick up the .slt file? it has potential...
cults3d.com
https://cults3d.com/:1464541
Looks great Joe. Nicely done as always.
B
Amazing details..
Thanks, Massimo!
WOW!!!
That looks great Joe.
Thank you, sir.
Happy New Year 2024 Joe and All the best to you and family.
Fantastic Micro work !!
You know that these amazing details won't be all seen in flight, therefore proper static display is best.
Too many helis are just laying on the ground when not flying, while public not able to appreciate scale details being too far (security).
Stand device, info panel, transport and team in action are much appreciated,
eventually!
Thanks Rémy!
Nice mod on the tail and the control rod
Comments
First spool up without main blades: put a finger on the carbon pushrod to confirm doesn't vibrate.
Nylstop allows perfect adjustment, maintenance tuning and no risk to get loose (no need to glue/loctite then).
Thanks Rémy. Yes I need to change the hardware there. There is an issue with with the nut hitting and limiting the travel of the black arm.
I had to radius the nut a little to get the travel I needed. I also will flip the cap screw over and install top down. Thanks for the tips.
So cool 😎
This is quite visible - I use auto-styling matt vinyl film (or permanent pencil for small area)
Does wrap and stick well, easy to remove if needed one day.
Application example
Thanks for the tip, Rémy!
Dammit Mang,
That looks great Joe. You will like the 3X. Been flying the BD for many years. It will really come together once the blades are painted.
Nice Job Mang,
B
Thanks Butch!
Question for you. In the setup for the 3x, what would be a good starting point for the head gyro, rigid stabilization? This is the only point of the setup I am not 100% sure about. I have the channel on a pot for adjustment, just not sure where to start.
That a good question. If you ask 10 modelers you will get 12 opinions.
Every heli is different. Each have many variables that will affect the stab system and how it reacts. Get it in the ball park and adjust from there.
I usually set a reference number of 70. Lets call that the "home" setting. I will set up banks to have 3 different setting but always have a "home" or "base setting" to return to if needed. Using banks I will set 70, 75, and 80. Once comfortable with the "home" setting flip the switch ( I prefer the switch) or adjust the slider to the next higher setting (75) and see how it fly's . Is it better? If so give the next setting a try (80). I take small steps and work my way to the point where it feels like I want it feel. Remember there are several other parameters that can affect things as well. The default settings once you select the helicopter rotor diameter are a good starting point and adjust from there.
Hope that helps.
B
Ok. I get it. That is very similar to Brain/iKon bank setup for flying styles. I will go in that direction instead of the pot. Thanks!
Heli looks Fantastic!, If you ask 10 modelers you will get 12 opinions. Good one Butch LOL
I use the 3x in all my helis, and the default settings will work for most right from the get go, i personally don’t use the remote head or tail gains on a pot once setup,
Once everything is adjusted to me liking everything comes off the switch. Heck, sometimes my sausage fingers get mixed up between the landing gear and stabilizer functions. Last thing I need is to turn off the head or tail gyro. Ha
B
Good morning Butch, and that’s why I do it, even just putting your radio in and out of case, the chance is probably pretty high you’re going to move the knob or slider., personal preference
Some photograph took couple picture in flight. When looking at those afterwards, we found very visible that there was no pilot onboard! Not something we focus on when flying.. Find picture prior enhancement.
Any provision for your beautiful machine?
Hi Remy, I understand what you are saying. however I find the scale pilots to not be very realistic looking and would rather not add one that looks cartoonish. Besides, I doubt a professional photographer will be photographing my heli for any magazines. LOL!
Ghost Pilot ! lol
At least it wont look cheesy as most do. IMO
@Joe Bessette
Wrong assumption 😄
Rèmy, I have come across this pilot. Lol
Doesn't look too bad. I will have to take some measurements to see if it will fit.
Sorry, I wasn't implying your heli wouldn't be photographed for a magazine. I meant mine. I edited my comment
Yep, nice. Exact size to be checked indeed.
Note the servo operated head and random motion generator options. Not cheap but you might like it.
Joe that looks great. Fine job my friend. Hopefully I will see it at one of the upcoming events up here in the northeast.
What kind of collective pitch range are you running?
B
Thanks Butch! I have -4 to +10 at the top. Around +4 right now mid pitch. Blades are 510mm. Normally the 2 blade head would be 550mm.
I am hoping to make it to MA. this summer. Yours is closer to me but driving through the city gives me anxiety! 😂
Looks awesome 👌👏👏 ... I'll wait for the video 😉
Joe,
Glad to here it flying well. I think it needs a "cross country" trip from CT to LI in a couple weeks. If not hope to see you and your machines at the Joe Howard Memorial in MA.
B 😊
Thanks as always, Butch!
How's the ferry ride across the Sound? 😂
Take about an hour+ and roughly a 45 minute or so drive from Port Jeff to our field once off the boat. Ferry runs about $75 for car and driver each way.
The drive around, as long as there in no Zoo York traffic takes roughly the same amount of time however the big variable is traffic. If heading over for the day (Saturday) The morning drive should not be bad but all bets are off for return drive in the evening. If you are able to make it, maybe drive around in the morning and take the ferry back and make a reservation.
B
Don't know how you do it daily.
Just the thought of coming through Co-op city gives me anxiety!
Ha. I only drive about 20 minutes each way to work now.
When I was traveling for work, I would get through the city on Monday morning by 0600 so it was smooth sailing. 1 hour 6 minutes form home to TEB. 62 miles. Drive home on Friday at 1200 was almost 3 hours.