Building Scale Landing Gear

This little bit of detailing will be important to those of you who are like me and don't have the equipment to weld metal and aluminum or do not want the expense of having it custom made (professional welders ARE NOT cheap and, from my past experience, do not like welding very small projects). You can find custom-built skid gear, but I prefer "doing it myself".

Cross Tube

I actually saw this method in a Vario kit but added one step that I thought was needed: adding the small pin at the bottom of the cross tube so the J-B Weld would encapsulate the cross tube and eliminate any chance of it pulling out. I have used this method for years on several models weighing up to 37 pounds without EVER a failure. The cost is very minimal and will vary depending on whether you are modifying your existing gear or using new aluminum tubing or aluminum rod.

I have found that solid rod is a little harder to bend to shape, but when using rod you don't need a tubing bender to reduce the chances of the "tubing" deforming at the bend. If I want new tubing or rod, my first places to look are Aircraft Spruce or Amazon. I sometimes use the existing cross tubes as a template for bending the new cross tubes (if needed). If the shape of the existing cross tubes is not acceptable, I use one-inch plywood cut to the correct shape and bend the tubing around that.

You will need J-B Weld, some plastic tubing (Plastruct, Evergreen Plastics, both can be found at Amazon), a 1/4 inch round file, a handheld metal saw (hacksaw) or band saw, body filler, small screws, high build primer and paint.

Gear Type

It is at this point you should decide if you want "low gear", "high gear", or "flotation gear". The flotation gear will require much longer skids. Look closely at your pictures of the full-size helicopter skid gear and you will see that most "cross tubes" are smaller in diameter than the skids; this makes a big difference in the scale appearance of your model when finished. I go with the correct diameter even if it means having to purchase new cross tubes.

Modifying the Stock Gear

If you are satisfied with the stock gear and only want the correct angles and more scale-looking attachments, and the cross tubes and skids are welded, cut as close to the skids as possible as shown in the picture, then file the rest to smooth the skid tube. If using gear that uses the plastic fittings, you can set them aside for another project, as I have never been able to heat and form them to the correct angles.

There are two ways that I have simulated the scale-looking skid connectors: taping off the correct shape and spraying several coats of "high build" primer, OR using plastic tubing and body filler (your choice).

Joining Cross Tubes to Skids

Once you have measured the correct distance between the front and rear cross tubes, drill the holes in the skids slightly oversized to allow for the small pin you will add to the bottom of each cross tube. This is a critical addition to the process because it makes a permanent and secure connection between cross tube and skid. Taking the eight small pieces of foam, push them into the skids in front of and behind each hole that you have drilled for the cross tubes. This foam creates a plug to keep the J-B Weld in place while curing.

At this point I cut small pieces that will slide on each cross tube and that, when completed, will give you a very realistic-looking skid connector (I prefer to slide these plastic pieces up on the cross tube and out of the way while the J-B Weld cures). Drill and insert the pin at each cross tube near the bottom (refer to drawing), leaving about 1/32 inch sticking out of the cross tube. I use a 2mm screw and cut off the head. This pin allows the J-B Weld to encapsulate the cross tube and pin and eliminates any chance of the cross tube pulling out of the skid.

Apply enough J-B Weld to completely fill the hole and push the cross tube into the skid. The J-B Weld will push out around the cross tube, but that is perfectly acceptable, as about halfway through its curing you will shape it to the correct contour and finish with the round file. (This is the reason I chose J-B Weld, as it has a 24 hour cure time, giving plenty of time to make sure the skid gear is square and the angles are correct.)

Finishing the Connectors

When everything cures, use the round file to smooth each connection, slide the small plastic tubes down to the connection, and take plastic tubing of the correct diameter for the skids. Cut them into pieces as shown, place them on the skids and secure all the plastic tubing with CA.

I use automotive Bondo as a filler to complete the connection and sand to the correct shape. Prime with "high build" primer, and once satisfied with the finish you can use very small screws (found at Amazon), and after painting you will have the most realistic-looking skid gear possible. Use your pictures as reference and you will be very happy with the results.

MAKE IT LOOK REAL!!!