Vario Starwood Lama Project Build
Lessons learned to date
Use a hopper tank and tubing per the supplied schematic supplied with the Jakadorfsky manual. I had substituted a bubble tank which caused improper flow and shut down in flight. Nothing against bubble tanks, it just didn’t work in this application.
Horizontal stabilizers build up pressure due to the turbine exhaust heat which in turn created a split in a seam. I drilled a small vent hole for pressure relief.
During flight, I had one link come off of one of three tail rotor blades loosing, you guessed it, 33% of tail rotor effectiveness. This caused the heli to pirouette out of control. I was able to land it, cutting power at the last minute for a rough landing. See modified links and bolts. I used a solid steel rod to straighten the landing gear (thanks Dan for the advice).
I fabricated a bracket to prevent the tail rotor control rod link from ever coming off at the tail rotor gear box.
I safety wired the tail rotor housing bolts to prevent them from working loose. This had happened on another Lama flyer.
The location of my fuel tank vent seeped fuel ruining my bottom navigation light. I stuffed the light with absorbent material and check it often.

Thomas D.







25 Comments
The Starwood kit is very nice until you get to the 4,000 little screws for the canopy! 😆😆😆
OMGoodness, so true, that chapter is coming…
Good chapter! The Jako is my go-to turbine!
I am still asking myself what is gratifying about cutting fiberglass!! I wish Vario would pre-cut this stuff. Pending that, I've had good results using a cut wheel that I get about 1/4" to where it needs to be. After that, I use a grinding bit. Then, it's all sanding blocks with a mask and vacuum during ALL PHASES! 😉
This reciprocating saw makes it a lot easier, but agree, lots of sanding regardless.
That's fascinating! I never imagined using a jigsaw on glass! I'm guessing it's a very fine tooth blade plus the tape has to help prevent fractures.
The bearing blocks for the tail drive are METAL! The ones that come with the larger 1/4 scale Vario Lama are PLASTIC. I've already had to replace one.
This is one of the most thorough build threads I've seen ANYWHERE!
I love clean wiring!
A hot knife will slice through the fiberglass easily without making any dust. There are electric powered hot knives that look like soldering iron handles with an X-Acto blade on the end. Another alternative that works really well is a butane powered handheld pencil torch with a blade attachment on the end of it. The butane powered torch is now my favorite way to do this.
OMG, I soooo need this cool kit! Shit, now I have to retract my request to Kirsten to pre-cut all their fuselages! Joel, you may have to do an original post with a video of this doing its magic!
I never knew…thanks! I’ll check it out for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Multi-Function-Self-Igniting-Adjusta...
Also look into perma-grit tools, I use them every day for composites, shaping glazing, and anything wood. Still have two sanding blocks that are over 10 years old and still as good as the day I bought them. https://www.tylergraymodels.com/Perma-Grit-_c_47.html
Manufacturer precutting windows will make the fuse weak, making it susceptible to shipping damage. Hot knife is the ticket, ask Ben Cheng, he is the master of making openings in fiberglass.
Outstanding work!
Thank you Rene!
Tommy, did you run tanks in parallel or series?
Tanks are in series.
Lama fest!!!
I have gone through all 20 chapters and have enjoyed every bit of it! Excellent job!
Thank you, really appreciate that.
Thank you for sharing. My Starwood 315 kit has been purchased for 2 years, and I have no time or energy to assemble it. Your article has taught me many skills. Maybe, I will assemble it next year.
Toms, I hope you do finish it and best wishes.
Thomas Dean, Thanks
来自中国的读者,看完了20章,很棒👍🏻