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Fusuno Bell 407 / Vario Mechanics
Roban Hughes 500D
This 500 was built last year. Flew great right off the bench with no modifications other than pinning the torque tube and shortening the landing gear struts by two inches to give a more realistic look. Powered by Align 850MX, Castle 120 on 12S, Spektrum electronics, Bavarian 3X.
"Low Level Hell"
Being a Veteran of the Vietnam era I have a great fondness for anything helicopter during that time. If you have not read "Low Level Hell" by Captain Hugh Mills you should read it. That is the man and the book that made "Miss Clawd" a well known helicopter in the scale helicopter community. This is my second Miss Clawd with the first being built in the early ninties and nitro powered. This one is...
Being a Veteran of the Vietnam era I have a great fondness for anything helicopter during that time. If you have not read "Low Level Hell" by Captain Hugh Mills you should read it. That is the man and the book that made "Miss Clawd" a well known helicopter in the scale helicopter community. This is my second Miss Clawd with the first being built in the early ninties and nitro powered. This one is a product of Vario Helicopters and equipped with Vario Benzine mechanics, powered with a Scorpion 5035 and retaining the Benzine clutch with a Heliworkshop clutch adapter, a Castle 160 ESC on 12S, Spektrum electronics and a Sound system making a very realistic model. The mechanics were highly modified to allow for a full cockpit and easy battery change. The cockpit is completely "scratch-built" from wood, plastic and aluminum. Pilots are a product of TailoredPilots, WarBirdPilots and patches added for the Vietnam era. Personal weapons and other cockpit accessories came from BlackOpsToys and Ebay. Stetsons were 3D printed by my friend of many years Mark Burks owner of Micro Designs. The "stogie" in the gunners mouth was the idea of my fellow full size pilot Csptian Randy Rivers that I shared a lot of civilian airspace with who also flew the OH 58D in the Iraqi and Afghanistan wars. I try to fly this model just as Miss Clawd was flown by Captain Mills.

Ironically, the song was a protest of the war! I still love it.
Starwood Lama 1/5th scale.
Vario Hughes 500C 1/5th scale
RCPilotVario Hughes 500C 1/5th ScaleWanting my models to look a little different from all the others was my goal with this Vario 500C. Mechanics and Electronics I wanted to use the Vario 1002/40 mechanics converted to electric, utilizing the Benzine clutch
Check out Jon's Hughes 500C article. Very instructive whether or not you are building this particular model!
Goosky E7
I was lucky enough to get an early production version with the 10T pinion. I relocated the packs and use a pair of 3300 batteries for 7 minutes at 7.5kg and a head speed of 1100 rpm. A low kV motor is recommended like the Egodrift 4230EC-370kV. Stock 630mm look like symmetrical and fly great ONCE balanced. The mechanics fit perfectly well inside the frp. The fuselage is built for a tail belt...
I was lucky enough to get an early production version with the 10T pinion. I relocated the packs and use a pair of 3300 batteries for 7 minutes at 7.5kg and a head speed of 1100 rpm. A low kV motor is recommended like the Egodrift 4230EC-370kV. Stock 630mm look like symmetrical and fly great ONCE balanced. The mechanics fit perfectly well inside the frp. The fuselage is built for a tail belt riser and it works perfectly. It's very sturdy with a 15mm main mast.

From the Kraft and Logictrol beginnings in the '60's and '70's, I always dreamt of getting one but I could not afford it then. I bought my first one in 1987, it was a Century 7. Futaba was in the hay with theirs with poor ergonomics but JR's was perfect. Over the years I upgraded to PCM 9 and then custom made PC10sX. It's so natural for flying helis but not at all for 3D and they vanished. For me it's enjoying rc or no rc. So with the help of Roger Forgues, in 2014 I created my first FrSky single stick. And built one for each FrSky update and now use an X20RS my latest conversion. I also designed a conversion for my TX16S II which works perfectly. The MKIII will be done next winter. Flying scale with single stick is heaven and the reason I keep flying at 75. But I do fly mode II when I teach others.
100% more Flighttime? What do you think of the NEW Noro-Ion flight batteries?
Hello fellow RC flying enthusiasts. What do you think of the new Noro-Ion flight batteries? Or in other words, what`s your experience with them? I managed to get over 15 minutes of flight time with my Blade 230S microheli UH-1 scale heli. With LiPos, the maximum was 6–8 minutes. So I`m happy for now. Has anyone else had experience with scale heli flying using these new Li-Ion cells?
You can...
Hello fellow RC flying enthusiasts. What do you think of the new Noro-Ion flight batteries? Or in other words, what`s your experience with them? I managed to get over 15 minutes of flight time with my Blade 230S microheli UH-1 scale heli. With LiPos, the maximum was 6–8 minutes. So I`m happy for now. Has anyone else had experience with scale heli flying using these new Li-Ion cells?
You can watch the full 15min flight video here if you wan`t:
Hirobo Dauphine 60 Electric Conversion
Teching Turbofan Engine Assembly
1. How do I attach the spring to the clutch card?
2. How do I disconnect the electrical control box motor wire from the motor terminal wire?
Flying the Bell 206b Jetranger at Arvada this past weekend. Thanks for the Filming Jeff Leasure!!

Thanks for sharing this, Randy!
Kontronik Power Jive 120 HV ESC inside
Anyone wondered what is inside a Kontronik Jive Pro ESC?
The dual stage power board with the mosfet's, the processor controller board with the BEC unit on the backside.
The BEC circuit is covered with a closed metal case to avoid interference with the ESC power stage.
Obviously the ESC was bad, so it was offered to science. 😄
Installing Battery Packs in Starwood Lama Electric
My Starwood Lama has the Electric Mechanics which means a) find a place for the massive battery packs and b) getting the packs in and out.
Before I sold the Lama back in 2018, I had the packs installed directly below the mechanics and accessed them from the bottom aluminum wedge piece below the rear side panels. This was ok, but very difficult and uncomfortable to accomplish, but doable. The...
My Starwood Lama has the Electric Mechanics which means a) find a place for the massive battery packs and b) getting the packs in and out.
Before I sold the Lama back in 2018, I had the packs installed directly below the mechanics and accessed them from the bottom aluminum wedge piece below the rear side panels. This was ok, but very difficult and uncomfortable to accomplish, but doable. The packs are 2.4 pounds each and installing from that direction is not easy.
Now that I have it back I wanted to make life easier so I modified one of the side panels such that it’s easily removed and replaced. I have shortened all of the original retaining screws and glued them in place so that from the exterior everything matches the other side and looks unchanged. This is only a template setup as I am having retainers 3D printed that will clip onto the tube frame with just the right amount of tension so that the panel will not come off in flight (I will still use one magnet). The bottom plate has 2 positioning pins and a magnetic attachment so I will be able to manipulate the packs from the bottom and sides.
The 2 pieces of wood adjacent to the aluminum fold are the main positioning guides. With these the final alignment will be perfect. There is only one way they fit.
The next step will be to modify the battery mounting system so that the packs just slide in so that I don’t have to position the present aluminum mounting brackets each time I put them in place.
I'm having a hell of a time finding the bin file to get the knotronik Kolibri 140 HV-1 telemetry to work on my jeti system. I've been looking for the bin file but no luck their.
i know the tell me module is an option but the KOLIBRI is putting out an EXBUS protocol soooooooo.
Thanks in advanced guys.

I reached out to a fellow heli Jeti Master. And the issue of all fixed. Or shall I say never was broken.
Once the ESC protocol is set to Jeti. Set the receiver port to Exbus. All the goodies will be populated to the telemetry menu options. "Not in the explorer as expected." This is explained in the online instructions, but was not in the written instructions I received in my packaging. Just a update over site on their part. No biggie.
I hope this helps the next pilot/builder. Happy building and see you next time on the mat!!!
CoachE
Vario Chinook XL
Is there such a thing as a low-profile outrunner motor?
looking to find out if the Hobbywing ESC's have a sweet spot?

Hello, not sure I understand the question and I'm not an expert on this, but I do remember discussions with similar conclusions, in short:
At full throttle an ESC is close to 100% efficiency. Then, as the throttle decrease the efficiency also decreases, which results into more heat to be dissipated by the ESC (energy which doesn't go to the motor). This is the ESC itself, then what is the context; gearing and motor KV who are playing also an important role. Also motor timing should also primarily match btw ESC and motor.
From memory, ESC are generally performing well if not below 85%. If you plan to reduce the headspeed and you are already around 80%, consider upgrading gear ratio and motor KV, rather just lowering the throttle. Will also allow a better torque to sustain the regime when increasing the pitch.
Do you think on an Apache 500 size, I can get away with running a Flywing 60 amp ESC with gps? It says for "requirements" that it needs to be an 80 amp ESC. And an 850-1200 KV brushless motor.

60 seems a bit on the low side. I run a HobbyWing 120 in mine. Are you planning on the 4 blade head? The 1200kv is definitely on the high side. I run the scorpion 900KV 3226 motor in mine with the 4 blade head and tail.
I need to make a switch with my ESC brand.
(Short long story) pm me for details.
I run scale helicopters on 12S 5000mAh. Please share your experience with who you are using.
I have a roban Apache 700 that I'm slowly working on this is my first roban kit I'm looking for information and some pictures on how people are arranging their electronics in the fusealodge any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
So I have a Roban Apache. By default, it was designed so you would mount the ESC in the fuselage right in front of the mechanics, then, in front of that (just behind the nose) you would place your two 6-cell batteries. Your flight controller (and probably your receiver too) would mount on the mechanics behind the cyclic servos.
As you've now noticed, there isn't a lot of room in the fuselage for extraneous equipment. If you are planning on using a separate BEC and/or 2-cell battery for your electronics, you could probably mount them on inside of the fuselage up front in the recesses on the left and right sides. There should be enough room in those recesses so the cockpit will still fit without interference.
My setup is a giant mess with stuff everywhere because I just had to put a 2-speaker sound system in mine. So I have a speaker, a sound module, a small 6S battery to power the amp in the sound module, a 2-cell receiver battery and my two 6-cell 5000 packs all crammed in front of the mechanics. The only place for the ESC was the open area underneath the mechanics. It's super ugly, but it works.
Motor recommendations for the Sky Crain? 12s
Minor update.
It took a bit of digging, but if everything works out as expected with the merchant, I should have the 72 cells necessary to power that 40hp brushless motor for the excessively large wing.
SPIM08HP cells are roughly the size of an iPad, and weigh approximately 10 ounces each.
It's going to be slightly tedious assembling the pack, but it should be worth it.
My next challenge is...
Minor update.
It took a bit of digging, but if everything works out as expected with the merchant, I should have the 72 cells necessary to power that 40hp brushless motor for the excessively large wing.
SPIM08HP cells are roughly the size of an iPad, and weigh approximately 10 ounces each.
It's going to be slightly tedious assembling the pack, but it should be worth it.
My next challenge is building a test "stand" capable of not being ripped from the ground when I spool the thing up.

I might have to make a post on the power station later, since it is technically RC related. On that note, the rest of the cells arrived today. A whopping box of 52. Also, I'm glad i picked up that extra cell, because one of the cells has a tiny gouge in it. It's not punctured, but I don't want it onboard the craft like that regardless.

Two layers of power!! Nanuk 920 case.
Motor/Gearing/RPM/Head Speed/Blade - Set Ups for All My Helis

this is VERY useful. Can you post an ARTICLE in the articles area that not only includes your chart but explains this? I think users will appreciate.
Barry S.




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