Need Advice in Scale Helicopters

I made the switch to Jeti and going thru the learning curve. No doubt I am totally impressed, a whole new world of capabilities with Jeti. The Bell and Lama are converted, waiting on some decent flying to “adjust” the Axon (read Michael and Sandy’s article along with a ton of Sandy’s help). Also, a lot of YouTube learning at Harry Curzon’s pages plus others. I’ve looked at a few other sites, but thought I would post here first. Q: Where is the best place on this site to start a Q&A?

Hello, I have 3 Vario scale helicopters. Since retirement, I can no longer afford the prices Vario is asking for their scale kits. I have had Roban before and was not fond of their kits, quality and virtually no part support! Does anyone know if their quality has improved? I had the AS 350 which ate belts and chewed up gears. I also had the 700 cobra which the gel coating on the outside started to peel off. Has anyone else had these problems? I want another cobra but have no idea if their quality has improved drastically.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated
Mike

I am setting up a 3X unit and was wondering if there is an option to remove the servo connection from the 3X unit and have the gyro work in a serial output mode. some of these digital servos are power hungry and the central box is made to deal with that.(bavarian demon even makes a big deal about this by requiring dual power leads with jeti in serial-in mode) but if there is no option to leave the servos plugged into the central box (or receiver for that matter) what is the point of having the central box or the bigger power management RX's? it seems that the fixed wing version of the gyro has that option explained in the manual, but I see no reference in the heli-version manuals. there seems to be a black hole in data on the internet for this information. am i stuck just using the servo outputs in this unit?

Dear scale heli pilots,

Last week I was testing a new B212 build and got PHT2 (v12.79) cut-off after 5 min cool flight. The shutdown data is showing that the fuel pump voltage suddenly drop from 1.5 avg in flight to 0.9, then immediatly tried to recover with 2 volts, but too late; flameout. Hopefully no damage at all despite the crash looking impressive.

All other logged data like rpm, temp, turbine state, etc. looks fine. Also I couldn't see any bubble but maybe got expelled when the pump rushed to recover. The tank had about 30% kero left (felt clunk) but, as in doubt, I'm currently adding a UAT BVM.

My ask: I am correct assuming that the ECU does react to the presence of bubble or cavitation in the fuel line and is the pump expected to increase or reduce it's speed?

Hi all. I am new to ScaleHeliPilot. I have recently bought the Vario Chinook 1:11 and I'm done with the mechanics. Fuselage up next. I have never cut fiberglass before so I am petrified :)

Other than some old RC scale cars (eg Tamiya) I have done in the past, this is my first journey into the world of Scale.

I noted that Michael Kranitz suggested a step bit for the 30mm landing gear holes. I am curious though about the larger circular cutouts for the rotors. The instructions suggest 75mm and 90mm diameters for those. What is the best way to go about it? A dremel would work but it is difficult cut perfect circles with a rotary. I could look at a hole saw, but I'm worried that it might rip the fiberglass.

Curious to hear what other people did.

My second question is about sliding the mechanics in and out of the fuse. I saw Michael warned that one needs to be ready to do this a lot. It seems quite an involved process. Removal of the front rotor (and re-application of loctite after reinsertion?) And I guess the landing gear must also be unscrewed from the mechanics every single time? Is accessing the front landing gear not a pain? Because I assume the landing gear struts must remain in the fuse after the mechanics slide out.

I'll probably have many more questions as this proceeds. Looking forward to some great discussions here.

Autorotation pitch.

For our scale helicopters how much is needed? -2,-3,-6, more??

All my scale helis use similar pitch curves: -3, hover pitch, and +10.

I practice Autos on all types on a sim but only with my 700 pod and boom in real life. The exception being on a couple of occasions due to real life failures: once with my 40lb BK117 which was mostly successful with just bent rear struts and some cracked fiberglass. And a second time with my 700 size 14lb MD500 somewhat less successful due to a delay in actuating the Auto.

It has been suggested that -3 degrees isn't enough...at least initially, and the Auto curve should have something more than that as a starting point.

Thoughts?

Painting fuselage
I got a lot of experience from my first scale build. Among others challenges with painting. In what order to paint inside /outside / detailing etc. But biggest problem was to choose type of lack. I started with an alkyd paint but was not happy. A tiny fragment of dust left an “island” of non paint area and a lot of frustration. If you was heavy on the spray can the lack will move downward, and you are back to start.
Then I tried nitro cellulose lack that works better. Just that you can not mix this lack and alkyd lack because NC lack dissolves the underlying lack. It is hard to touch up NC lack with a brush, because the fresh lack will dissolve the old lack and just make mess.
So people out there, what are you using that is giving less headache?

New to SHP. Stumped & need some help. After 10 years I am jumping back into RC Heli's. I last left off with a fully operational TRex 600 and a large drone. I purchased a Roban 700 AH-64 and have the mechanics ready & electronics installed. System - Spektrum ix14 trans & AR8000 Rec'vr, I bought the Motion RC recommended electronics, Castle 160 ESC @ BEC, 3 MKS DS1220 Servo's, 1 MKS HBL 980 and 2 Admiral 5000 mAh batteries. I hook up the esc and the motor operates as programmed. However, the servo's will not function at all. I programmed the Castle ESC to 6.6V & tried 7.6 volts, still nothing moves or makes a sound. I have tried an AR14400 Rec'vr as well with no different results.

Would appreciate some advice on how to get the servo's functioning.

Thanks A

I am in desperate need of some help.
Don't respond if you know me ha ha.
My vario helicopters have always been gas power and now I have Skyfox mechanics and there's not one picture of any install anywhere even a direction's have assembly of the mechanics but nothing about installing the electronics with that setup.
Somebody out here must have assembled the skyfox mechanics with an electrical call set up.
I am a desperate need of 10 or 15 different angle. Photos of a setup to help me with this build.
Again I have the directions for the mechanics but there's not one thing about where anything mounts or goes when it comes to electric. Please help i'm desperate.
Thanks Bob

Hi all, I have a Roban Bell 407 700 size just recently completed. I'm running 12 degrees positive pitch and about 3 degrees negative. This seems fine on all my other scale ships but this one seems to not want to rise sort of speak. If I'm hovering stationary and go full collective the model goes up very very slowly. I'm afraid to fly it thinking it may sink to the ground when I come back to a hover. Any advice would be great.
Thanks!

Who wants to share his settings data of his Roban EC135/130 with BD Axon with me?
I've been looking for the right setup of the Axon in the EC130 for several days now and can't get the right feeling to fly it, Engine is a Hacker A50-12L Turnado V4, Esc a jeti Mezon 130, Servos: Savox 3x SA-1258 TG Swash, 1x 1283SG tail (30Kg/cm) on the video you can see the first flights, there was quite a bit of wind (4Bft)

Starting my first scale Heli.
Finishing up an Align 550X super combo kit.
Have a Funkey Bell222 (not Airwolf scheme).
50/600 size. Most things are straight forward except how ill mount the battery. If stock mount, I’ll have to get access from front or improvise a mount.
Next foreseen problem is mechanical retracts that came with kit. Servo sync etc. I’ll be using either a DX7 G2 or JR XG8 DMSS
Question is are they worth messing with or suggest electric or air that will fit well. Could someone recommend a set of servos for the supplied retracts. Better yet, a reasonably priced set of electric or air retracts
I guess the first question should be is the 550X a good setup for the Funkey 222.
Any comments and help is appreciated..

ive got my md500 500 sz with trex 500 mechs and mini v bar fbl my tail pitch control is not behaving as should its not responding to right stick commands under load so when l spool up and l give right rudder it does not respond if l give left rud it works then after left command the right will respond but wont give enough pitch to control the helicopter l can replicate the issue by light touch of the tail blade while giving right command.
funny thing the unit compansation is correct when l swing the modle left to right end to end

So I was able to get a Roban 500 size MD500 from MotionRC. I have a TREX 500 for mechanics in it and was able to get a couple flights on it before our field closed for the winter.

If I was to replace the head with a 5 blade head, do I stay with the same blade length or go smaller to keep the load on the esc and motor manageable? For all practice purpose, it is an older TREX, pretty much stock with a HW 100a v3 esc.

So I have the doors cut out of the fuselage on my Jet Ranger 206, I left about 1/4" of material all around the opening and obviously the doors will not set flush with the fuselage. If I take the "excess" out the door will fall through, by adding the hinges and latch is this the right way to go to keep the doors from falling through? I have looked at several thousands of pictures and everyone I have seen looks like the extra material is left in place.

Been involved with RC fixed wing and some helicopters, built a lot of models from plastic to balsa. I now have my first scale helicopter from Vario. Did a lot of review research and picked Vario because of the high marks they got. But so far, I'm having trouble with some of the parts not fitting like the landing gear (skid ) horizontal stabilzers mounting to the stubs on the boom, if some one could answer the question if the parts not fitting correctly you should have to modify the parts to fit? Is this normal for a scale helicopter from Vario?

Need help. Have a 900 size Vario R22. It flys great but am having a problem. Burning up tail rotor servos. On the third one now and at this point it wont last long. After a 7 minute flight the servo is hot enough you can blister your finger (if you could hold it on it long enough) . Shorten the flight time to 5 minutes not much difference, still hot. The cyclic servos are just fine. What we have done so far in trying to fix the problem. Linkage operates freely. Checked the voltage coming out of the FBL ( same as the cyclic ones) it is within specs. Servo is a HV up to 8.4v. Double checked the programing in FBL. it is set at 760 pulse and 500 frequency.( servo specs are 760 pulse and 560 freguency but Axon Fbl only goes to 500) Have run out of what to check or do next. I know I can't keep replacing servo at 2 or 3 flights,