Latest in Scale Helicopters

Thomas,

From the Kraft and Logictrol beginnings in the '60's and '70's, I always dreamt of getting one but I could not afford it then. I bought my first one in 1987, it was a Century 7. Futaba was in the hay with theirs with poor ergonomics but JR's was perfect. Over the years I upgraded to PCM 9 and then custom made PC10sX. It's so natural for flying helis but not at all for 3D and they vanished. For me it's enjoying rc or no rc. So with the help of Roger Forgues, in 2014 I created my first FrSky single stick. And built one for each FrSky update and now use an X20RS my latest conversion. I also designed a conversion for my TX16S II which works perfectly. The MKIII will be done next winter. Flying scale with single stick is heaven and the reason I keep flying at 75. But I do fly mode II when I teach others.

I do not remember when the last time that bolt was replaced. This bolt, P/N 053, is the bolt that is supplied with rotor head P/N 705/30 and is also used on the tail grips to hold the tail blades. The description has G-12 so would guess its a pretty strong bolt. The shank is not threaded so is the correct bolt to use in this application.

I wonder if the slop in the follower was the root cause over time. The follower have been replaced with P/N 68/20 which is ball raced opposed to the pins installed on the original driver. The bolt will be inspected and or replaced on a regular basis moving forward.

UIH,

B

That is a classic look!!

Picture in chapter 1 of chapter stories

Thanks.

Great job Danny

It will be fun to watch…hope to meet you out should our schedules align.

Wow!! That is incredible! I had no idea that it was even possible to customize like that. Thank you for that insight and detailed explanation.

Fene's are tough cookies to get right. Tight tolerances and rotational speed limitations make for interesting adventures, especially at my altitude (6,000 feet). This is a great topic to cover.

The best of the best!!!

Thank you!

It is. I’ve bought stuff from them pretty often if I can’t find it elsewhere. No issues so far.

All gears are Vario stock products.

I added pictures to this, but they are not there and there is no edit button. I’m not very good with computers.

That pretty cool. I like it.

B

Any update on this?

check this
https://www.sk-rotorkopf.de/rotorkoepfe/bell-uh1-rotorkopf-600/412/...

I think that's part of the instrumentation package from test/eval. Other images don't have it. I have gotten the FLIR platform worked out, just need to figure out the FLIR itself. The challenge is that this is only a .30/550 size heli. The nose datalink antenna is only about 25mm tall.

Hello Cletus, the flying weight is 18.7lbs (8.5kg) with the 3 batteries, 2x5000 6S, that i use for everything (motor, servos, received, etc), and 1x1,500 3S that is use for the lights system.
Head speed 1,250rpm, i tried to lower it to the 1,100 suggested but at 1,250 it feel more comfortable, for me, in the way the heli respond. Fly time 8min but the batteries still have 55-60% charge after landing. I hope this help you with your project.

Awesome!

Luckily I was able to place the lipo's next to the mechanics instead of in the cockpit, CG point is just fine now. Lipo's tray's supported directly by the metal frame, so no load on the fuselage.

See how stable. Here candy drop at public show.

Hi Patrick. I am curious where you managed to source the 70º dampers from to fit the heads. This is a coincidence as I was thinking of doing a project just like this at 600 size. I was considering using Roban metal crown gears as they would be stronger that the plastic ones. I don't know if the teeth on the main gears would fail as the next weakest point using the metal gears but it might be worth a try. Regards Jonathan

Yes it is. Always nice if your can cover the mechanics a bit. 😄

Mercie, is gebouwd alsof hij voor mezelf zou zijn, zou den Donald van Dovy zeggen.

Nice exhaust ports

On helis like the Future and even Raptors, I have just eye balled them and sometimes used a dial caliper to measure off of a common surface. If off a little, those helis would be trimmed in the radio anyway

Yes, I did around 8 flights last weekend with this setup and got everything dialed in. This will now do a thumbs off hover with so small a drift it is most likely a breeze pushing her. Once I get these mechanics back in the fuselage I should only have a minor adjustment.

Hi Tidal, this is a Vario critical part around 130USD, to not fail in flight. I have no information about your skills and this is expensive. Is it the reason why not buying a new one?

If you succesfully remove the two bearings without damaging the supporting flange, you will also need to successfully put the new ones back without any damage or misalignment.

From experience, using new part is the best option, if available in the market, and less risk of issues.

See picture: In the past I replaced bearings myself with e.g. ceramic ones, but finally ended to buy ready to use kits, mainly to save time.

Of course, it's a different story if you have special requirement like wanting other brand/performance bearings.

(to install parts, we sometimes retract or expand metal by putting them in fridge or hoven)

Ha. I only drive about 20 minutes each way to work now.

When I was traveling for work, I would get through the city on Monday morning by 0600 so it was smooth sailing. 1 hour 6 minutes form home to TEB. 62 miles. Drive home on Friday at 1200 was almost 3 hours.

Just ordered it up from Mark Smith 😃

So far with the gyro fly systems I have looked at requirements will not work with a SPEKTRUM DX7S radio.

It is not just US, Kai is not shipping outside Germany. The only option to get Helitech blades is if you have a shipping address in Germany. Sometimes it is nice to have friends...

If looking for MOD 1 slanted.

Yes , I purchased it from motion RC Nov. 2021 roban 800 size EC-130 tested it on test bed I made to the approximate weight of the finished model , I had what I thought was a esc problem a hobbywing 130A but after more testing my spektrum receiver proved to be defective after talking with horizon hobby they sent me a new receiver free of charge and all tested good , so after sitting all 2022 flying season I installed the mechanics this winter got in two test flights went well , getting things tweaked in and waiting for better weather here in Michigan. flying weight of model about 19.5 pounds , main rotor speed tested at 1000 & 1100 . 1100 seems to be sufficient , the fenestron tail held up well in the test .

That link is on the wrong side of the swashplate, flip it to the left side so Align is upright and readable.

Thanks for the reply, the wood frame once put in the fuse (not glued in) tips toward the front about 10 degrees. It actually rocks forward and backward sitting on the bench. The fuselage just sitting on the bench tips back about that with out landing gear attached. The landing gear also has some pitch forward. The mechanics frame has no pitch what so ever. Thanks

First, consider how you want the heli to perform. Lower disk loading results in better hover and auto-rotational performance while higher disk loading results in better forward flight performance. For our hobby, I think lowering disk loading is better. Rotor solidarity (e.g. how much disk area is taken up by blade material) is a factor. You are adding more solidarity which helps prevent stall but if you leave them the same length, you add stress to the motor. Wider blades can give you more solidarity (just like additional blades) so if you can compute the area taken by the original setup and compare it to the new one, starting with identical solidarity might make the change more predictable. More blades helps with vibration (assuming they are tracked properly). I hope that helps!

I do really like the portable main shaft. I think it's more reliable than compression rings and grub screws.

Send a email with your specifications you need. info@heliworkshop.com

patrick, I will be adding content here, stand by

Wieder super

Damn Mark, I didn't even know these existed! These are fantastic! Did you fabricate?

Looking Good!

thanks for sharing this build it will be helpful with my build

I agree Michael, I seems very minor, but its certainly causing some sizeable issues. I believe the .005" is just too much and get some blades on there and the issue is magnified!

Luckily, I was able to find a couple main shafts for the Roban Bell 412 from Baumann Helikopter in Switzerland and while shipping was expensive, they are the only ones who had some in stock, so I ordered two and then a bunch of spares to maximize shipping cost.