Latest in Scale Helicopters

R/C can be useful to keep model on smaller fields but otherwise free floght remains more chalanging as it callks for careful adjustment to teach your bird to fly. It takes it out of your hands. Otherwise it is like holding a model in your hands and making engine noises while waving it about in pretend flight. Every launch of a free flight is a new adventure while R/C just circling about and going through controled patterns at often considerable expense. Some overbuilt monstsities look dangerous flying at well over scale speeds. Perhaps I am just a ludite but some of you folks might try flying a rubber powered ROG.

The aircraft fuselage is cast from composite material using custom-made molds, then reinforced with a balsa wood framework and a system of structural ribs. Each component undergoes a center-of-gravity calibration process before moving on to the finishing stage.
The product is delivered unpainted, allowing the project owner to select their own color scheme and level of detail; alternatively, clients may request that the workshop complete the finishing process according to agreed-upon specifications.

Being a Veteran of the Vietnam era I have a great fondness for anything helicopter during that time. If you have not read "Low Level Hell" by Captain Hugh Mills you should read it. That is the man and the book that made "Miss Clawd" a well known helicopter in the scale helicopter community. This is my second Miss Clawd with the first being built in the early ninties and nitro powered. This one is a product of Vario Helicopters and equipped with Vario Benzine mechanics, powered with a Scorpion 5035 and retaining the Benzine clutch with a Heliworkshop clutch adapter, a Castle 160 ESC on 12S, Spektrum electronics and a Sound system making a very realistic model. The mechanics were highly modified to allow for a full cockpit and easy battery change. The cockpit is completely "scratch-built" from wood, plastic and aluminum. Pilots are a product of TailoredPilots, WarBirdPilots and patches added for the Vietnam era. Personal weapons and other cockpit accessories came from BlackOpsToys and Ebay. Stetsons were 3D printed by my friend of many years Mark Burks owner of Micro Designs. The "stogie" in the gunners mouth was the idea of my fellow full size pilot Csptian Randy Rivers that I shared a lot of civilian airspace with who also flew the OH 58D in the Iraqi and Afghanistan wars. I try to fly this model just as Miss Clawd was flown by Captain Mills.

I have built a total of 13 Roban scale helicopters and all have flown perfectly. I loved the looks of the Mercy Air but wanted to change it to the "Utility" version replacing the retractable gear with skid gear. Being new to 3D printing, I printed some suitable looking seats, patient streacher, SPH5 flight helmet, cyclic grips. I pieced together the pilot using accessories from Ebay and BlackOpsToys, added a harness set from Micro Designs to finish out the cockpit and interior. I enjoy building the Roban models, they build easy and fly great. I can't keep them all, lol and this one has a home with a lifelong friend David Stinnett and he is enjoying it immensely.

This my friends is one of the most noticeable things you will do to add a realistic and authentic touch to your beautiful model. Nothing else will make the "impact" more than a little exhaust soot. Keep in mind you only want to add this to your scale models with a "top mounted" turbine where you will see the accumulation of soot on top of the tail boom and stabilizers. Don't forget to add little soot to the leading edge of the tail rotor blades. The models such as the Hughes 500 series with a bottom mounted turbine will not leave but a slight amount of soot. The reason being: the exhaust from a top mounted turbine will accumulate more on top and in the middle of the tail boom due to air flow and rotor wash. The soot from a 500 series with a bottom mounted turbine will be mostly dissipated before reaching the verticle stabilizer and only a slight amount will accumulate near the bottom from the tail boom down. I like the results from using the Rust-oleum "High Heat 2000 Degree Ceramic Coating" for the best results that suit my goal. I spray the Rust-oleum into a cup and transfer it to my airbrush because the airbrush "atomizes" the paint into a very fine spray. I have used "flat black" paint and it works well but to me is a little "too black" when shot heavy, your choice. Apply the soot compared to your full size pictures. Most Military models accumulate a lot of soot because in a combat environment they are washed only "when water is avalible", lol. When I was flying full size on a long day of flying as you see in the picture of the ENG 206 it would get quite dirty. Just a little soot will enhance the realistic look of your model. If you have a model with a "black" tail boom you need only to add a little dusting of Testors DullCoat right from the can to simulate the soot and deglossing the tail boom. You can see my use of DullCoat in the video. The use of DullCoat is because after many washings the gloss coat will loose it's high shine. The decision to make is "do you want a big beautiful model" or do you want a "big beautiful model that looks REAL".

Most prepainted models from Roban, Funkey, Marvelcraft and others come with very nice paint but not a lot of detail. It is VERY easy to increase the realistic appearance of a prepainted fuselage by adding highlights to the rivets, adding panel lines, hinges and latches with nothing more than a little paint, brushs, 1/64th Graphic Tape and different colors of fine point permanent markers. I highlights the rivets with silver or aluminum permanent markers and "dry brushing", add or highlight panel lines with 1/64 Graphic Tape, simulate latches with small pieces of Monokote trim. I add exhaust soot with a cheap airbrush, if you have a black tail boom as on my yellow and black 407 I simply sprayed a light coat of Testors DullCoat on top of the tail boom and the leading edges of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers along with the leading edge of the tail rotor blades. You can judge by the "before and after" photos to see what a difference this little bit of detailing can accomplish to add a more realistic appearance to your prepainted model.

My goal for many years has been to make my models look as realistic as possible. I am in a small group and there is "absolutely" nothing wrong with having a beautiful "pristine" model but that is not my goal. I spent over thirty years in helicopter aviation and I seldom got the opportunity to fly a "pristine" helicopter. Most all my experience was in well worn and heavily used helicopters and I guess it left an impression, lol. Unless you are modeling a Medical helicopter, Executive transport or factory new or Air Force One lol, then there is going to be some wear. Even in ENG ( Electronic News Gathering ) and the Offshore industry ( where I retired ) we had to wash our helicopters daily and even then after hundreds of washings they began to show wear and loose their shine. I can certainly relate to you guys that want a "beautiful" and "brand new" looking helicopter but my goal is a "used" helicopter. I truly know the hesitation in "scuffing up" a new glossy paint job with "0000 steel wool" and "DullCoat" paint but to me it is just adding "realism" to give that authentic look. I "weather and wear" even my pre-painted models. Just adding a little "exhaust soot" can give your model a more realistic look. We love them all, weathered or not, BUT if you want to join the "next level" in modeling look at the pictures and determine if that might be your next goal. Just to show you how dedicated I am to this goal I am giving away an authentic SPH4 helicopter flight helmet as an award to the "most realistic and weathered" model at my Fun-Fly next year.

I purchased this model in 2023 in the"white" and only test flown. It has HELI-FACTORY mechanics with Hacker Q80 for power, Kontronik 200 on 12S, Bavarian 3X, ModelSoundsInc sound system ans Unilight lighting.
It was a "slick" fuselage with no exterior detailing. I added the rivets, panel lines and all exterior detailing. The cockpit was scratch-built, pilots were purchased from BlackOpsToys and pieced together with different heads and bodies ( the Frankenstein method ) along with assorted pilot accessories.
The armament is a combination of 3D printed parts from SCALE-PRINT and 9MINIMATRONIX.
Most Super Cobras are painted some form of Navy gray or camouflage. I did a lot of research and found that the USMC used the Sea Cobra in Opperation Urgent Fury and most of their helicopters were Deep Forest Green and even with this being a different version of the Cobra I chose this color, not building for competition but for personal preference. I did modify the skid gear for the proper angles and stance.
As with all my HELI-FACTORY models everything fit perfectly and flys GREAT
This model is now owned by Owen Battle and I am begging him to bring it down to Tennessee for me to once again fly.

Hello Scale RC-Helicopter Pilot Friends! I’ve mounted a Caddx Ascent+ HD FPV video system on my Flywing AS350 GPS RC-Helicopter in various positions. Flying an RC helicopter via FPV in full manual mode has a unique appeal—I personally really enjoy it. In this part 2 video of my fpv flight series, I’ll show you some footage from these FPV flights using the different camera positions. Which camera position do you like best? Have you tried setting up an FPV system yourself, and what has your experience been like?
Watch the Video here if you like to see some FPV Flight Footage:

I have been using sound systems for many years with great results. I had one of my models at a show a few years ago and as I was spooling up I heard the announcer saying what a realistic turbine I was using, he was very surprised to find out it was an electric model with a sound system. I used the older ModelSoundsInc system for years but they went out of business and BeierElectronics, a German based company that has been in the sound business for many years decided to make their system compatible with RC Helicopters. They offer the addition of an amplifier which allows you to hear the authentic rotor sound in flight of the selected full size helicopter.
I have included a video of my Starwood Lama which you can see in the "video section".
BeierElectronics offer many different helicopter sounds to choose from as well as the option to purchase the individual components needed to fit your project. I use two four inch speakers, USM-RC-3 sound module and amplifier in my big models. You can choose the size and number of speakers or use of the amplifier to fit your project. Their system allows you to personalize your model with ATC voices, guns sounds and other sounds if desired. You can power the sound module from your receiver battery or use a seperate 7.4 as I do. I power the amplifer with a small 1000mah 6S for many flights.
You can reach BEIER-ELECTRONIC.DE outside the U.S. or contact HOBBYCONCEPTS.NET in the U.S. if you have questions you can reach out to Bob Jacobsen at HOBBYCONCEPTS and he knows EVERYTHING about the product and can answer any of your questions.

I have built many Hueys, from the Hirobo 30 size to the big gas powered Hirobo but this 1/4.8 scale Huey is the largest at around 98 inches. The first picture is how it came out of the box. I had read many things about the HELI-FACTORY models and the detail and quality was much more than expected. This is one of their "Super Scale" models with rivets and raised panels, panel lines and many other exterior details created during the manufacturing of the fuselage. HELI-FACTORY cuts out all opening panels and doors/windows and pre-installed all the woodword ready for the mechanics to be installed. The mechanics were assembled and ready for the installation of my Spektrum electronics, Kontronik 1000 and Kontronik 200 ESC. I installed a sound system for a very realistic start-up and shutdown. The rotor head is the most realistic Huey head I have seen in a model.
The cockpit and armament are a product of SCALE-PRINT. The pilots and gunners are from TailoredPilots. I had the model flying within a couple of weeks "in the white" to get it airworty before disassembly for paint, personal detailing and weathering. I chose to build this Huey to represent a "C" model flown by the "Razorbacks" gunship platoon in Vietnam. The dummy turbine engine and M40 nose mounted granade launcher were 3D printed by Russell Rohan. I prefer my models to look well used and this one is highly weathered. Everything fit perfectly and flys GREAT !!!

I have been an avid admirer of Heli-Factory models for several years as well as a very big fan of the Bell HUEY. I have several thousand hours in helicopter aviation and had the opportunity to fly the Huey and have been "hooked" ever since. With Heli-Factory introducing the 1/5th scale Bell 205 last year I had to have one and it is one of my most prized models. I have an acquaintance who flew for Air America in the sixties and I wanted to build this 205 to represent a 205 flown by the "CIA" covert airline. This model is about 96 inches in length. This is the first Heli-Factory Bell 205 using electric for power. The mechanics are designed and geared for turbine use so I reached out to Vincent Offenbeck at Egodrift with the necessary information and he recommended the 5040HS-385 using a Kontronik 210ESC and running on 14S. All Spektrum electronics, Bavarian 3X. I have added a BEIER-ELECTRONIC.DE sound system.
The cockpit and exterior detailing are a product of Scale-Print, the pilot is from PremierPilots and detailed with the necessary Air America clothing and patches. With the mechanics hidden I had lots of room for scale accessories. Air America was famous for "across the border" operations that were not allowed by the U.S. Military in Vietnam. They flew a lot of cargo resupply ( among other things, lol ) and that is what I wanted to represent. The model is painted in Air America colors of silver and blue and this one is highly weathered to represent a well used helicopter. The 205 has a RTF gross weight of 54 pounds and flys GREAT.

Here's my progress on the Big Schweizer 300 from Vario. I just moved to Idaho, so waiting to get moved into our new home, but I'll post up more as the project progresses. I've modified the mechanics frames and installed a back FG panel in the cabin to allow the installation of a full cockpit from Patrick Leong. He and I collaborated on the first of it's kind fully detailed cockpit for this kit and it is a work of art. More on the cockpit later. My colleague Patrick printed an incredibly detailed Lycoming engine for it as well. It's converted to electric on 12S with one on my custom clutch adapters for the motor. I'll post pics of the mechanics frame mods when I pull the heli from storage. Stay tuned...

One of the coolest parts of my job is getting to help bring helicopter products like the Blade Bell 206 to life. As someone who was involved with this project from the beginning, it's been awesome to see the community's reaction now that it's in pilots' hands.

What I love most is that it delivers a scale experience that normally comes with a much bigger price tag. The Bell 206 looks incredible in the air, is approachable for a wide range of pilots, and doesn't require the investment or complexity that many scale heli projects demand.

I'm curious...what's your favorite part of the Bell 206?

🚁 The scale appearance? 🚁 The flight performance? 🚁 The value? 🚁 Something else?

And for the scale heli crowd: what do you think is the toughest helicopter to beat in this price range?

#BladeHelicopters #Bell206 #RCHeli #ScaleHeli #Rotorhead #HorizonHobby #RCPilot

This is my old Marvel-Craft H125 700 with RVE DUBHE mechanics, I switched to from SAB Kraken 700 and it's much lighter. I used this very easy to fly platform for my first Vantac 007 RF TW/X20RS configuration. It's very important to use the FrSky recommended servo order. I had to change it in my radio which was configured for MSH for Futaba order. I still have a long way to do before it's as consistent and easy to fly as the iKon2. The biggest hurdle is access to the mechanics inside the fuselage to configure the FCU. This is my first flight and it shows. The heli is all over the place but at least I did not crash it. I will spend the winter months working on it. Head speed is 1150, Heli-Tec 680, Hobbywing 200 (for ballast and easy to configure in RF). Integration and telemetry work perfectly. I had to change to 110 tail blades because of the low head speed and tail authority loss.

I was lucky enough to get an early production version with the 10T pinion. I relocated the packs and use a pair of 3300 batteries for 7 minutes at 7.5kg and a head speed of 1100 rpm. A low kV motor is recommended like the Egodrift 4230EC-370kV. Stock 630mm look like symmetrical and fly great ONCE balanced. The mechanics fit perfectly well inside the frp. The fuselage is built for a tail belt riser and it works perfectly. It's very sturdy with a 15mm main mast.

As the founder and principal software author behind RCUniverse (back in the day), I am excited to have you here to see what RCPilot is all about. I can share a few things:

- If you want to see what your RC World can be, change worlds using the menu by the logo up top and visit Scale Helicopters. We have lots of content there from the predecessor site, HeliStorm. It illustrates how phenomenal the platform can be when the folks commit to adding valuable content.

- This is NOT like Facebook in the sense that every contribution here gets analyzed by AI (subject to your final say) and cataloged by topic and, if applicable, product. This makes it possible for other members to easily find and benefit from the knowledge you shared. That said, we have a SHOTGUN SHARE feature that lets you share your posts with all of your favorite Facebook groups and forums.

- Unlike Facebook, we are not divided into little groups that spring up monthly. Trying to keep up with dozens of groups just ruins the community experience. Here, we are divided into "RC Worlds" but those divisions have proven to be useful over time. You can hope from one world to the next, but most of us are aligned with one primary discipline so that's likely where we will be.

- Our "build stories" are very cool. The link each chapter in your build journey into one story so that people can easily drill into a chapter to learn what they need while others maybe just follow along with every chapter.

- Our integrated "RCMarket" is the most advanced classified market software on the planet. Lots of security.

- There is a ton more here. Look around and please contribute. In this community, rank is achieved by the QUALITY of your contributions. There are no "Like" buttons. Instead, we have sentiment sliders that let you grade a post on 4 different criteria. That's meaningful feedback. Those whose posts earn high marks from the community, get status.

After much internal debate and input from the RC community, at large, I decided to rewrite the entire HeliStorm platform and integrate it with RCMarket.com and the functional elements of RCChecklist. The result is a community for all those who fly and all those who place a high value on being able to efficiently share and find things relative to our hobby.

On RCPilot, scale helis has a head start, so if you know someone who flies other RC stuff (or if you do), please feel free to contribute!

Hey Guys, most of you who know me understand that I despise the countless selling areas on Facebook and forums simply because they fragment an already small market. A week or so ago, I launched RCMarket.com, a central market for ALL RC stuff. The market is amazingly simple to use and it has powerful filters and mobile capabilities. Since I wrote the software, I can adapt it as needed to user feedback.

The Buy & Sell link here on HeliStorm now link to RCMarket. It's free so please use it! The only way a market works is if people use it!

Hello fellow RC flying enthusiasts. What do you think of the new Noro-Ion flight batteries? Or in other words, what`s your experience with them? I managed to get over 15 minutes of flight time with my Blade 230S microheli UH-1 scale heli. With LiPos, the maximum was 6–8 minutes. So I`m happy for now. Has anyone else had experience with scale heli flying using these new Li-Ion cells?

You can watch the full 15min flight video here if you wan`t:

🚁 Big News, Heli Pilots! 🚁
Mark your calendars for the ultimate weekend of flying, food, and massive prizes!

The Scale Heli Extravaganza

📅 When: September 18th – 20th, 2026
📍 Where: AirMasters RC Club (North Bend, OH)
💰 Pilot Fee: $45.00

🏆 What’s Waiting For You:

Epic Pilots Raffle: Win a Vario 1/6 Scale Jet Ranger helicopter!

Pro Setup: 91-acre field, powered pit tables, covered shelter, and a dedicated hover zone.

Great Food: On-site concessions plus a catered Friday night dinner by Spinning Platter’s.

Camping & Lodging: Dry RV camping on-site, or call Comfort Inn Lawrenceburg at (812) 539-3600 (ask for Jackie) for a discount rate.

Shoutout to our amazing sponsors Heli Workshop, Aeropanda, and Performance Hobbies South!

📧 Questions? Contact Event Manager Evan Sayres ("CoachE") at Esayres1@gmail.com.

See you on the flight line!

UIH,

After all the rain over the weekend it cleared up enough yesterday afternoon for its maiden.

The stick frictions on the TX are a little different that I am use to and I have never flown or set up the FC 6250 controller but things went great. Looked to have one blade out of track which I will check later today. Heli was weighted to roughly the finished weight and set up a touch forward CG. Power felt great with the data from the ESC looking very good. Some adjustments and she will be ready to go.

A vid of the event.

UIH,

B

Danny brought up a point about how current contests have the pilots calling their next maneuver and performing a "reset" before each maneuver.

I was thinking about full scale air shows and helicopter demonstrations. Interestingly, in those events, the aircraft actually do reset in order to perform a maneuver at show center. All of which is to say that I think we should let pilots decide how they are going to execute their routine. In the "Artistry" part of the judging, I suppose a judge could reward a pilot who chooses to smoothly move from one element to the next.

Food for thought!

Gents,

I reset the discussion category so it is private (apparently, my followers got an email notification due to a bug in the software 🤦🏻‍♂️). Evan Sayres has been added to the group.

Very good discussion last night! Our next steps are:

- Each person should craft what they think is a good paradigm for competition classes and judging factors for each class (what they do, not how they do it).

- We can think about how judges evaluate what competitors do (e.g. evaluation standards like, "precision," "realism," or simply just "score."

- We can include audience/fellow pilot votes as a % of the overall class score

- We can have an "artistry" factor which accounts for the "in between" flying among prescribed maneuvers

Rather than email, just post your replies in this thread.

I often find myself porting small tools from one work table to another or simply scattering my tools on the sole table I’m using.

The other day, while grabbing supplies from Harbor Freight, I noticed an end cap display of mini toolboxes in a variety of colors. I had to grab a few thinking I would anchor two in my heli van and have one for my main workbench. I’ve now discovered just how useful these cute little boxes really are. I’m working on an assembly table (not my sit-down bench. I just grabbed the box and put it right in my work area. Every time I’m finished with a tool, I pop it back into the box and it’s never lost.

Simple and fun! $18 bucks at Harbor Freight!!

Cant wait to try it at the field. My only gripe is the main ratio and recommended kV. It comes with a 12T pinion for a ratio of 9.33/1. So I ordered an Eclipse 4230EC-370kV to compensate. Good news though, I learned there is a 10T pinion available which I ordered. Head speed in hover is 1175 and love the feeling of highly precise mechanics. It's about time a manufacturer offers decent quality at sensible price.

Happy new year...

It's not only nose-in or turning inside, it's scale flight at its best with the scale helicopter in all of it's full scale brother attitudes. It's quite easy with practice on standard tail helis (raised or straight) which have much better tail authority. Last summer I flew my new 1/6 Vario H145 which is a modified EC-145 with a Vario 10 blade fenestron. The new fenestron is lighter and a lot more efficient than the old 8 blade or 9 blade Roban. And easily adaptable since it has the same form factor as Align. But I dont use either and against all detractors mine flies perfectly with a belt drive. The new fenestron does not bring tail authority to levels attainable with standard tail blades but provides enough for most circumstances. Although it's still a light wind flier. So far I have built 4 fenestron scale, two H130, one H145 and the latest one a 600 size Gazelle (with the old 8 blade and CW blades), I will complete setup this year. I intend to build a 3rd H130 with the 10 blade Vario for this summer also.

https://youtu.be/mJ8nn5DdGQs?si=t0U6CKuQK_DpS-sf
https://youtu.be/zPySNsuKMVg?si=1RCE34gi1EM3aEpd
https://youtu.be/qx-QkmtXhxI?si=nG3i9noape3gaevX
https://youtu.be/Uiz6wcz_BCA?si=C6CWJOwLu5P8Kg9A

This very much outlines last season...

For 2026, I have the Vario 520n on the work bench. I ordered a 1/4.5 R22 from my friend at RVE, I should get in a few days and, will build a 5th H130. All to explore and improve orientation flight for scale.

Have great new flying season and remember if they stay on the shelf, your skills are not improving.

I have 5 helicopters on my Jeti transmitter. Over the years, I have learned that I simply cannot remember the different functions I have assigned to different switches. I have Axons in three models and Futaba CGY’s in the others. I have three Pahl turbines, a Jako and a JetCat. One model has a Bambi bucket, one has a winch and water cannon, and another has retracts. 🤪

So, to keep my mind in a good place, I bought a Brother P-touch D410 (which lets you make micro-sized labels) and I labeled my transmitter as shown. I also take the extra time to use as consistent a setup as possible so the controls match the labels.

This is not revolutionary; it’s just practical!